Landsknecht Schamkapsel (Codpiece)

http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schamkapse


This is a Schamkapsel that I made for myself.
I made it in different colors of green because I had originally made it as my apprentice Schamkapsel.
Documentation is a colorized woodcut of a Trabant of Graf Niklas Zrinyi retinue 1566
The picture is taken out of “Imperial Austria: Steirische Kunst- und Waffenschätze aus vier Jahrhunderten” ISBN 3-902095-00-8
Landesmuseum Joanneum, Alte Galerie, Inv. Nr. AG 10784-10786
Landesmuseum Joanneum, Alte Galerie, Inv. Nr. AG 10784-10786


The Materials I Used

Linen for the Inside piece
Linen for the Inside piece

Silk for the Interlining that will be "puffing" out of the Slashings
Silk for the Interlining that will be "puffing" out of the Slashings

Wool for the Outer layer that will be slashed
Wool for the Outer layer that will be slashed

The left side of the outer codpiece is hunter green, the right side is lime green and the silk is exactly reversed.

Patterning


See a rough instruction on how to make a Schamkapsel here, for this specific project I did not stick to this construction technique.
But it gives a good Idea how the basic set up is.


The pattern I made for this Schamkapsel
The pattern I made for this Schamkapsel

The pattern pinned on the linen being cut out
The pattern pinned on the linen being cut out


This pattern is also pinned on the wool and cut out. The silk is not patterned with this pattern.
The silk will stay like it is and attached to the linen once the linen and wool parts are sewn together.

Sewing

sewing the linen "Wulst" together
sewing the linen "Wulst" together

A closeup of the Backstitch  I used to sew the parts together
A closeup of the Backstitch I used to sew the parts together

Once the linen parts are sewn together it will be stuffed as hard as possible with scraps I have left from other sewing projects. Then sew the last bit shut.

sewing the wool parts together
sewing the wool parts together


Before I sewed the wool parts together I marked out my slashing pattern on both the "Wulst" parts of the wool
and then cut/slashed these. After that I folded them to the inside and tacked that down (see explanation here).
I should note that I did not use the top stitching method described in the explanation
The "Wulst" pats sewn together with slashings turned and stitched down
The "Wulst" pats sewn together with slashings turned and stitched down

The Pieces before final assembly.


The linen inner "Filling"
Front view
Front view
Side view
Side view
Back view
Back view


Final assembly and finished Schamkapsel

I took the lining and I attached the silk after I had gathered it to the right length to the "Wulst" part of the Schamkapsel.
After the separate wool parts (the same as the lining) were sewn together I then turned it right side out and pulled the wool over the lining with the silk attached and then blind stitched closed.
I then sewed a pair of lacing holes in both the top right and top left corners. The bottom point I sewed to the crotch of my Langehosen that I was wearing at the time

The Schamkapsel on my Langehosen at Pennsic 38
The Schamkapsel on my Langehosen at Pennsic 38

from left: Agilmar, Bruno. Alexander and Myself  (wearing the Schamkapsel)
from left: Agilmar, Bruno. Alexander and Myself (wearing the Schamkapsel)


Thoughts and notes

About the Schamkapsel:
Disappointingly it did not quite turn out the way I wanted.
I know what I would have had to do different to get the look that I wanted.
This happens to me every time I make a codpiece. You think I would remember it, but nooooooo.
The next time I pattern out a codpiece (it would help if I didn't always lose the patterns for my codpieces) I make the same damn mistake I always make and think "hey isn't this the part I messed up and needed to do different...........??????................. neaaaaaa thats later on"
And then every time I think "the codpiece is not soooo bad and actually it looks pretty cool like that and well they did have this shape........... bla bla bla............"
(If you have ever talked to me about things Landsknecht you know I will ramble along for hours and bore everyone to death)

Langehosen and this Schamkapsel:
As one can see from the Woodcut that I based this Schamkapsel off of it should be worn with Pluderhosen not Langehosen.
So why am I wearing this Schamkapsel with a pair of Langehosen?
Simple answer; Because those were the pants I was wearing at the time.
That being said, I would like to expand on this a bit.
The woodcut with the Schamkapsel in question is dated to ca. 1566. Most literature on Landsknecht things (see my Resources page) will tell you that by the 1550's to 1560's the Langehosen had died out and where Replaced by the Pluderhosen (read about my theory on the Landsknecht hosen evolution to be added soon).
Well I place these two woodcuts from "Der Landsknecht im Spiegel der Renaissancegraphik um 1500 - 1540 von Birgit von Seggern, Bonn 2003"
against this
external image 6705325363_90b3776c93_z.jpgexternal image 6705325215_508b02bccb_z.jpg
If we can assume (always a bad thing to do) that these are not propaganda pieces or art with an alterior motive then there must have been a longer transitional period between Langehosen and Pluderhosen.
The big But; Is it likely that one would put a Pluderhosen style Schamkapsel on a Langehosen?
No it is not. Hey I did not say I get everything right but I do try to get better
At least we know that the Langehosen was still around when the Pluderhosen style Schamkapsel was raging through the Holy Roman Empire.

Gottfried